What men get wrong about socks, and how to dress from the feet up

Be honest, when was the last time you gave proper consideration to which socks you should be wearing when the summer months stroll in? If that question has left you scratching your head, thinking that “socks are socks, whatever the weather”, then you really need to keep reading.

You see, your underwear drawer is like the salad drawer in your fridge at home. At different points of the year, you need to rotate the produce to satisfy your culinary palate. The same goes for choosing socks when warmer weather arrives, as not all types deliver the same tasty outcome. And like the vegetables in your fridge, every now and again you need to give it a good clear-out and dispose of the mouldy ones. (Yes, including that six-pack of tube socks you’ve been eking out for the past how many years?)

So, where do you start? Sit back, put your feet up (and if one of your big toes is protruding from a sock, make it the first thing to go) and we’ll soon have you covered.

Master shorts and socks

Let’s jump straight in with a toughie: the “socks and shorts” combo. For many, this partnership has potential ridicule written all over it, but not if you play to your strengths. The style mavens among you may have already embraced the long-sock-and-short-shorts trend, or the chunky-sock-and-sandal ensemble. If this is you, keep blazing your own trail.

But if you just want to look “quietly stylish”, here’s some advice to get you started. “Always start from the ground up, so first consider what style of shoe you want to wear with your chosen shorts; if it’s a trainer, opt for a sports sock or something of medium weight that hits your mid-calf. If it’s a loafer, think about a finer option in fabric and with a rib,” says Sophie Dunn, menswear stylist and brand consultant. “Then colour comes into play. As they will be on show, a bit of contrast is always good but find a colour that complements the palette of your outfit. I also think it’s more stylish to not pull your socks all the way up when exposed – ruffle them a bit to achieve a breezier look.”

For those who like to show off their ankles and calves, or want to avoid unsightly tan lines, the “no-show” sock is a great option. But even though there’s less fabric to deal with, there’s a strict rule you must be aware of. “The trick with ‘no-show’ socks is that they should be invisible to the world,” says Dunn. “Achieve this by ensuring they are tucked in and out of sight.”

Socks to suit you

There’s something inherently British about always wearing socks with suits, whatever the weather, and for good reason. We simply don’t share our Mediterranean neighbours’ climate, and as it rarely pokes its head over the mid-20s in the UK, there is very little to celebrate about unsightly blisters or knobbly ankles.

Like the fabric of your suit, you should swap wool for cotton in the summer. “Natural fibres win every time,” says Maud O’Keeffe, design director of Harrys London. “Light fabric suiting calls for lightweight socks.” She adds: “Cotton lisle, also known as fil d’Ecosse, is a mercerised Mako cotton yarn from Egypt. These summer-weight socks are both anti-allergenic and breathable, making them a delicate sock for special occasions.”

But some sartorial rules remain the same. You should always opt for mid-calf length, or longer, so that when you sit down, your hairy legs stay in check.

Keep your cool when exercising

If you’re the type of man who throws on an old threadbare band T-shirt when going to exercise, pay attention. Sportswear has never been so accessible, from design to price point, and is designed to help you perform better. The socks you choose to keep fit in are no different. Ensure they are moisture-wicking and breathable, cushioned for comfort and preferably with a heel grip so you don’t need to interrupt your 5K when they start to slip.

Colour blocking is an effective way to style your gym wear. “I always try to match the sock colour to the shoe – black on black, white on white,” says Scott Oliver, founder of brand consultancy firm Good Morning Agency. “It’s a small styling decision, but it makes everything look more deliberate and thought-through, whether you’re on a run or just out and about. It avoids unnecessary contrast and lets the silhouette of the shoe speak for itself.”

Oliver continues: “A running brand I’m really into right now is Unna – they’re doing great things and they’ve quietly been building one of the best sock offerings on the market. What I love is how they’ve balanced performance and design. You’ve got options that are built for speed, and others that are all about comfort, depending on the run or the day.”

And don’t fall at the final hurdle by mixing your sports brands when it comes to socks and trainers, warns Oliver. “For me, it’s almost a sin to mix sportswear brands when it comes to footwear and socks. If you’re wearing Nike shoes, you should be wearing Nike socks. The only exception I make is for dedicated sock brands that don’t make footwear themselves. In that case, they get a pass – but otherwise, I really believe in brand consistency when you’re head-to-toe in performance gear. It’s a detail, but one that matters.” Some of you may consider this trivial, but your stylish gym buddies will appreciate the effort, and nobody should become a sweaty billboard.

Socks to impress your friends

Hands up anyone who has popped over to see a friend, only to realise on arrival that it’s a “no-shoe house” and you’re wearing odd socks or worse, your teenage son’s novelty superhero ones that you bought him for Christmas. You may think you styled it out, playing the “I’m-a-little-wacky” card, but those friends are judging you, so let’s set things right.

First, make sure that your sock drawer maintenance is more than just an annual job. Socks will bobble, hole and discolour after time, so either brush up on your darning skills or send them off to a recycling centre. “Invest in a de-piller or de-bobbler,” says O’Keeffe. “There’s nothing worse than having an expensive pair of socks that pill, then taking off your shoes and displaying bobbles.” This will stop that sudden panic when you’re running out of the door and realise the only clean ones available are littered with holes.

If you are a minimalist, someone who likes to keep things simple and tonal, invest in several pairs of socks that complement the main colours in your wardrobe. That way you know you’ll always be covered, and it keeps decision-making to a minimum.

Or are you someone who likes to push the boundaries and embrace colour and pattern? If so, you’re in for a treat. The sock industry is awash with bold and interesting options that will cater to your every need – the sky, as they say, really is the limit.

But as an adult, there are a few mistakes that are best avoided. Novelty socks, like the aforementioned superhero ones, need to go. While some synthetic fibres can work wonders nowadays, do your homework and ensure you’re buying the right ones as choose badly and your feet could suffer. If in doubt look for blends that have a higher natural fibre content. Finally, make sure you own socks that fit properly as they are designed to shape around your foot for comfort, from the toe to the heel. It’s not rocket science, gents, so it really is time to pull your socks up… but not too high.